Saturday, June 6, 2026

Marinhas to Darque

Overcast skies and drizzle – what a surprise!!!  How refreshing and our sunburns got some relief!  Here we joined the Portuguese Coastal Way. Many other pilgrims were to be seen all day and glimpses of the Atlantic Ocean!

Overall our day was simply IDEAL!!!  We bused a bit to Marinhas with intermittent windshield wipers.  It was a cool start yet the sun came out in no time, bringing a beautiful blue sky along!!  We walked beside beach homes, old and modern dwellings, churches, schools and cafés, pretty much all on cobblestone.  We had some short and steep inclines, a few declines, though honestly, upon reflection eleven miles later, our day totally felt like The Best combination of everything!!!  

There were wildflowers, fragrant eucalyptus trees, stunning hydrangea and lily studded yards, patches of calla lily, vibrant vegetable gardens, stork families in their nests, sweet dogs, aloof cats and a beautiful trio of caramel colored cows!  The way marking was colorful and plentiful and there were many a monument to pilgrims and St James.  We walked in forests cloaked in ferns, along side a river with waterfalls and over bridges that reminded me of my Glorious Pacific Northwest!  We even walked by a camping area boasting tents and an amphitheater!  

There were several churches on today’s walk, generally of the same architecture.  One was the Church of Santiago in Castelo do Neiva and is  of the 7th century – the first in Portugal dedicated to St James. Some of the boulder walking was a bit slippery and seemingly a prescription for calamity, and we were all tired when we reached our lunch meetup.  

It was a short ride to Hotel Paço de Vitorino, our palace for the evening. Truly, we stayed in a restored 16th Century palace!! 

The hotel is not far from the Ponte de Lima center, featuring a Baroque-style garden. The main sitting room was so inviting with its period appropriate furniture that it was difficult to leave!  The rooms were gorgeous, too, replete with more Victorian furnishings and Estremoz marble in the bathrooms!  Some rooms offer views of Lima River, while others overlook the garden or the natural landscape. The former winery is now a small library and our mass was held in the manor house chapel.
Dinner was cheeses, bread, salad, a delicious squash soup – and, the Portuguese specialty of codfish casserole (surprise!)

Oh, and once again there was a pool with beautiful vistas for our enjoyment!!  (11.6 miles)