Douro Valley

Friday, June 5, 2026

We are currently in Portugal.  So here’s the thing with a bus and tour company – one can start anywhere and end anywhere!!  Vitor, our “guide”, blister surgeon and basically Resident Hero, is Fantastic and lives in Portugal.

Luis is our driver, also from Portugal and an excellent captain.  You should see some of the skinny streets he has navigated plus he is charming, friendly and engaging!  Along with one of our crew who currently lives in Florida yet grew up in Portugal and still has a family home here she frequents – they greet and chat up locals and basically ensuring that we are on the “same page” with those we encounter in this country.  They know a ton, including how to sing “Happy Birthday” in Portuguese which they did in a recording for a five year old Pilgrim’s U. S. grandchild today!

This morning after breakfast we retraced the highway and roads, being transported up the Douro Valley and deposited in Lamego so we could walk BACK to Peso da Régua!!  

We started with the backdrop of their magnificent cathedral and made our way throughout the day through quaint hamlets, vineyards, olive groves, geological wonders and wild flowers.  The sun shone comfortably on us all day and just one trekker got lost and only for a few turns in the road.  There were some graded areas with loose sand that were steep and no fun to traverse, though thankfully they were short lived.  We heard many a barking dog, saw a few of them, one highly perched cat and enjoyed an euphony of bird song all day!

Lunch was at Xanoca and their offered specialty was barbecued chicken.  Their grilled octopus was also tasty.

The shoppers in our group were hoping to hit the stores upon arriving in our lodging town of Braga, yet instead, after a twenty minute luggage drop, it was off to the 16th sanctuary, Good Jesus, for mass – a beautiful church with a total upper view of the city.  

“Braga is a historic city in northern Portugal, known as the country’s religious center with a history dating back to Roman times founded around 16 BCE (as Bracara Augusta). It’s famous for its numerous churches, baroque architecture, and religious sites like the Bom Jesus do Monte sanctuary and the Braga Cathedral, but it’s also a vibrant, modern city with a large student population, rich culture, and local cuisine. As Portugal’s third-largest city, it offers a blend of ancient heritage and contemporary life, with attractions like the Archbishop’s Palace, Santa Barbara Garden, and local gastronomy.“ (wikipedia.com)

I happened upon a long procession heading into the cathedral so only entered for a brief and magnificent glance, followed by wandering amid outside eating venues, cork product stores (cork trees are big here) and linen vendors.  

Dinner at the hotel was – guess what…. cod fish and potato casserole!  Plus bread, olives, tuna with mayonnaise, collard green soup and a Delicious, traditional custard pudding, Purim Abade de Priscos. “Pudim Abade de Priscos is a true classic among Portuguese custard desserts. This pudding from Braga, in northern Portugal, has a rich history and an even richer flavor. What makes Pudim Abade de Priscos special is the use of lard, along with plenty of egg yolks, sugar, and a dash of port wine.

The velvety texture and deep caramel flavor make this dessert stand out among other Portuguese custards. The bacon fat adds a touch of savoriness, making the pudding even more intense. Pudim Abade de Priscos is often served at festive occasions, such as weddings or family dinners.

This dessert is unique in Europe and symbolizes the inventiveness of Portuguese cuisine. Local pastry chefs are proud of their own variations and secret ingredients. If you’re ever in Braga, you absolutely can’t miss these Portuguese custard desserts.” (misternata.com)

Miles walked today, 11.

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