Tuesday, April 15, 2025 Arcade to Pontevedra, 10.4 miles, 4 hours

I decided to start late this morning given the distance to my next place and the rain forecast…. I had the “included breakfast” – café con leche with tomato jam and olive oil on toast, which I like, but no protein!!  So, I augmented that with a protein stash of my own and off I was at 9.00, with an Adios to Mary from Canada!!  

And no sooner had I stepped out of the albergue, did I run into Noa – my first night Amiga from Israel! I walked with her for the next hour and we crossed the River Verdugo on Ponte Sampaio.  This was the site of the battle of Ponte Sampaio during the Peninsular war, 1809, in which the Spanish were victorious, forcing the French to retreat. And we also came across our friend Bruno from Casa Fernanda night!!

We crossed Ponte Nova, a metal & concrete version of the original medieval bridge and over the River Ulló.  We endured another strenuous Big Hill (Alto da Canicouva) initially along old stones (with wheel indents) known as Vera Vella da Canicouva.  And then it was a lovely walk past fields and grapevines on the way down.  I parted company with Noa as she started earlier and more distant than I did and was ready for a sandwich!

I passed Capela de Santa Marta, 17th-century, and wished to take a photo, but there was a huge group of people there doing the same thing!  Then it was past Ponte da Condesa, across stone Ponte Valentin and eventually by the Pontevedra train station.  I could hardly take note though, because the sky let loose and I was rained upon hard for 20 minutes!!!  I already had a cover on my backpack, and didn’t choose to pull out my raincoat – brrrr!! Then the sun shown brightly as I was walking into my accommodation site!

‘Turoqua’ to the Romans, Pontevedra is named after the Roman Bridge that crossed the River Lérez until  the 12th century, when it was replaced by Ponte de Burgo.  Ravachol, the talking parrot and Pontevedra’s mascot, belonged to a pharmacist in Praza da Peregrina. He was so popular that when he died during the carnival in 1913, a large funeral was held. Ravachol’s memory is celebrated during the annual carnival.” (Kat Davis)

The Capela da Virxe Pseigrina, 18th-century, is dedicated to the patroness of Pontevedra.  The facade has an image of the Virgin as a pilgrim between San Roque & St James.   Ruinas de Santo Domingo, is an interesting ruins of the 14th-century Gothic convent.  Other historical sites in town are the Basilica de Santa Maria, a 16th-century Gothic and Renaissance church with a “brilliant plateresque facade” and Convento de San Francisco, 14th-century, reconstructed in the 18th-century.   

I didn’t do much in this big town as the weather was less than inviting, but I did have a beer at an outdoor table and saw friends from Madrid who I met the other night and a Holy week procession went by inches from me!!

I have the day off here, and was looking forward to exploring – though the weather does not sound like it will be cooperating. Also, the place I booked for the next night seems to be a ways off, not only from here but from my Camino path so there’s that… !!