The Provence of Galicia is one of four autonomous communities that make up the geographical and cultural area of Spain known as “Green Spain”.  The others are Asturias, Cantabria and the Basque Country, all joined by the Cantabrian Sea.  This northern region of Spain stretching along the Atlantic coast is lush with dense forests, agricultural pastures and a wet, temperate, oceanic climate.

I have always enjoyed the last part of past Caminos entering into Galicia as it truly is verdant and inviting to someone like me who enjoys trees and vegetation!  And I was elated to be back upon arriving in Tui the other day!

As you have no doubt guessed, this lush greenness is in part the result of considerable rainfall. Today was our first exposure to that, and it looks like it’ll pretty much be raining every day from here on out… 

Thankfully, today’s rain while I was walking was only sprinkles off and on – enough to cover up my backpack with its rain cover, yet I didn’t choose to don my coat.  Many people were bundled up in ponchos and raincoats, but I knew we had two mega hills to climb and so knew that I would just be too darn hot ascending in layers of gear.

I ended up leaving much earlier than I had convinced myself was my new experiment of a slow-going-way to proceed – HA, that lasted One Day! The dormitory I was sleeping in, with its twenty five bunkbeds, had many coughing, sneezing and snoring people and with a window open near a busy street, 5:30 a.m. rolled around and all the noise prompted me to just get up. And get out.  My Fitbit says I got 2 1/2 hours of sleep…

I wore my headlamp in the darkness, only saw five other pilgrims straight away and before I knew it I was walking on my own. 

I really enjoyed the small  village of Mos, with its 16th-century Ingrexa (church) Santa Eulalia and grand 18th-century Paso (plaza) de Mos.

On to tackle the first Really Big hill, Alto de Lomba, past a Via XIX Roman milestone, up to the plateau of Chan das Pipas followed by a Really Steep downhill on Camino Coto do Gran with terrific views of the valley and Redondela.  I just loved that there were more woodland trails along side fields and grapevines, a few geese, sheep and lots of chickens!!  Convento de Vilavella, 16th-century was another historical site enroute. 

“Redondela is a delightful town known for its two 19th-century viaducts & its cuttlefish!  There is a church, fountain & square dedicated to St James.  Ingrexa de Santiago, consecrated by Archbishop Xelmírez (Santiago’s first archbishop) in 1124 on his return from Portugal, later rebuilt in the 15th-century, Alameda Park and the 18th-century Fonte de Santiago.”  (The Camino Portuguese, by Kat Davis)

And as if there were not enough pilgrims – the Portuguese Coastal Route joins in here!

I had intended to stay in Redondela.  Yet I heard many others were considering that, as well I heard people trying to book ahead had found no available reservations.

So I went to the next town, Arcade, known for their seafood including oysters) thinking I’d be Off the popular choice.  And was denied.  Yet, just as I was leaving, and praying, the proprietor said they’d decided to turn their private upstairs room into a dormitory for four, and offered me a bed!!!

It includes dinner & breakfast, too – 30 euros (paid 10 yesterday).  I’m also miles closer to my next destination.  So Hallelujah I have a place to stay tonight!! 

And then I got on the phone and online and have secured spots for the rest of my time through April 21!!  I am quite relieved! in all my years past I have never had to pre-reserve!!  And I do believe God saw me through this rainy, cold and uncertain day!!  

The afternoon turned into a windy, wet mess.  I have been watching pilgrims in swirling ponchos walk by for hours – some coming into the restaurant that’s adjacent to my hostel for a break, some trying to get a bed.  My proprietor says everything is full before and after where we are and that the pilgrims will be walking for a while.  Oh My Goodness!!!  

Oh, then Mary, the Canadian gal who I met yesterday in line and had a nice vibe with showed up!! And the proprietor came over to me and said, “she’s in the bed next to you and she’s the reason why you have a bed because we had a screw up reservation that involved her and so thus we decided to open up the room upstairs!!”  Crazy! I get tears just thinking about it!  WOW!  Just WOW!!!  

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