Saturday, April 12, 2025

Fontoura to Tui, 10 miles, 3 hours

More mind trips…  I had planned to leave around 9:30 given my calculated ten mile trek, yet when I rechecked the forecast I discovered that rain was due earlier than I had noted upon retiring last night.  

So, in spite of a marginal night’s sleep (barking dogs, body pain) I gathered my pilgrim belongings and hit the trail at 8:15.  

And oh, I forgot to mention that yesterday I developed a blister on the little toe of my right foot!!!  Go figure after all of my mileage!!  Perhaps it was because I left the socks I had worn every day (after washing of course) on the park bench in Ponte Lima as I was relaxing before lodging check in…?  I wore a new pair of socks yesterday. Or maybe it was that river bed “climb” over the Portela Grande pass…?  I am grateful it posed little consternation.

I ascended out of the most Beautiful village of Fontoura in fog and soon I was walking a flat grade, albeit rocky and rough.  I had such a sense of solitude and serenity that it seemed I was the only person on our planet.  

I thoroughly enjoyed more woodland and forest walking, past large yet humble properties with mature landscaping, past lots of grazing horses, and a continuation of lively spring blooms.  

Ultimately I descended into the historic town and fort of Valença.  

“A walled hilltop Village since the 13th century, it was in the 17th century (to protect Portugal from Spanish and later French invasion) that Valença’s walls were transformed to their current design with two forts connected by a middle gate. Nowadays it’s a shopping magnet – particularly if you want linens or towels!”  I meant to devour one last Portugués pastel de nato, but man, it was Saturday Morning Busy in town!!!  

I entered the fort at the Portas do Sol gate revealing lots of shops and restaurants.  And tour bus upon tour bus!!!  I left the fort going down stairs, through the “13th-century Muralha Primitive gate, through a second gate” and back out onto the Camino trail. What a massive structure!! Photographs cannot really capture its grandeur!  

I missed my last chance for Portuguese food (!!) because before I knew it I was saying “adeus” to Portugal, crossing the International Bridge over the River Minho and into Spain’s hilltop city of Tui!!  The sun was shining, the river expansive and Gorgeous and I was so happy to be back in Spain!!

I managed to get through Portugal only knowing how to say good morning (“Bom Dia”), thank you (“Obrigado”), and have a good Camino (“Bom Caminho “). Plus then of course at the end, goodbye(“Adeus”)!  I feel that was quite disrespectful of me not to have learned more – I just didn’t prepare well enough in advance… The people in Portugal were very, very nice, spoke great English and very accommodating. I don’t feel very adept at Spanish, yet I know so much more and feel increased confidence in terms of my communication having crossed the border!  And oh, there was an hour time change, too.

The Camino route took me by the river’s edge where pilgrims would traditionally disembark by boat in day’s past.

“Tudae ” to the Romans, Tui is an ancient Galician provincial capital that was fortified during the 12th-century.”

Since I was in to Tui so early, I chose to walk uphill, uphill, uphill (on the Camino route) to Cathedral of Santa María de Tui, a “12-13 century Romanesque with Gothic façade  and cloister”.  

Typically I’m too tired or don’t feel that I have the time, yet today I chose to pay the fee and visit Catedral de Tui.  I’m happy for everyone, but dang, there was a wedding that was just concluding and access to the cathedral was not available to the public. I was able to sneak a few pictures from the entryway. And then the skies let loose with rain!!

I ducked into a restaurant and had one of my favorite Spanish dishes -huevos fritos!! It’s simply fried eggs, but the eggs here in Spain are so amazing!!  

I tried to be a tourist – I had the energy…  Now though, I’m giving myself permission to take a break for the rest of the afternoon!  Day six down, and another six to go!!