Friday, April 11, 2025

Ponte Lima to Fontoura, 17.3 miles, 7.75 hours

I knew I had a short day ahead of me, the temperatures dropped by 10° –  plus rain was forecast to begin in the afternoon. So, I had a leisurely morning, enjoyed a hot breakfast, and didn’t begin walking until 8:30.  Both having breakfast and setting out this “late” have not been my usual style in past Caminos.  I do eat, but I prefer to have lighter food snacks that I munch on the way as having too much food in my tummy messes with my locomotion!  

What a pleasant and gorgeous morning I had!! Even more blooms greeted me, and trekking along cobbled paths, along side babbling brooks, over a number of stone and actual Roman Bridges, with the fragrance of eucalyptus wafting in the air had me All Smiles!! 

I enjoyed a delightful section of stone path with the sound of the cascading River Labruja providing a soundtrack.  And some pretty croaky frogs chimed in, too!

Walking so many miles day after day after day is definitely a physical endeavor! And of course there is also a mental component.  Today as much as I enjoyed my lovely scenery and the cool morning air, I was plagued with anticipation of the upcoming “climb”!!!

From Kat Davis’ guidebook, The Camino Portugués, “Between Lisbon and Porto the Camino often followed the Via XVI Roman Road.  From Ponte Lima it follows the Via XIX (connecting Braga to Astorga).  This stage crosses Roman bridges and climbs what many considered to be the hardest part of the Camino, over the Portela Grande (‘Bad to pass’ is what Confalonieri wrote!). 

The guidebook is helpful, yet when hours are compressed into a couple paragraphs you can imagine that the timeframe for a reader is a bit warped.  I kept wondering, “is this the beginning of the hill?” And then, “am I on the ascent now?” More Hills, more Hills, more Hills, “have I finished it?”  On and on these types of thoughts looped in my brain.  I had somewhat calculated the 1,338 ft Alto da Portela Grande to be around the five mile point.  Yet there were what I considered some good sized climbs before that!  

I finally reached it and the climb up and over the Portela Grande was indeed a rocky trail.  Big boulders and slabs of slate, amid grooved ditches and yup – it was STEEP!!!

Man though – frankly, I thought it was fun!! And it wasn’t the two miles I was thinking it would be based on my “Guide”.  In fact, it reminded me of hiking back in the Pacific Northwest!! It felt good to get to the top for sure, yet many of the hills through the urban areas on cobblestone, narrow, winding roads (with the added adventure of dodging cars) I found to be Way More difficult!!

Oh, and then there was the Steep descent!  Less boulders, but plenty of little rocks and slippery dirt.  

And then my mind was free once more!!  Feeling bolstered by this accomplishment and mental independence, having energy left in my tank and with precipitation not due for another couple of hours, I decided to continue past where I had planned to lodge.  I also happened past six of my fellow pilgrims with whom I had stayed in the last couple of days in one bar, and another Camiga at another bar adjacent to what would have been my stopping point.  It was onward and (yes, more) upward for me though!  

I ambled over the Ponte Romana de Rubiães over the River Coura, down a picturesque forest path with views toward Valença and into the truly gorgeous town of Fontoura.  

Much of today reminded me of my home surroundings in the Pacific Northwest of Washington State, USA.  The abundance of ferns, garishly colorful azaleas and rhododendrons in bloom, pine trees, nettles and I even saw a cedar tree!!  

I added eight miles to my trek, knocked on the door of a good looking place at 3:00, and was able to secure a room for the night in a Lovely estate lived in by a couple who rent out rooms.  

And I was able to dip my feet into their pool just as the rain began! They’re right next to a church, so I’ve been hearing the church bells all evening!