Monday, August 9, 2021
I know that we started in Baamonde, yet I really don’t know where we went today, or what towns we passed by. It seems like we only went through one very tiny little section of about five houses. I did see two signs identifying Sambriexo and Velouchada …
We knew we were only walking 5 1/2 miles so slept in and only left the albergue at 8:00, the required time for the premises to be vacated. We journeyed about fifteen steps and enjoyed some morning caffeine for a long while. Then we went the opposite way of our day’s direction for some groceries as yesterday, Sunday, they were closed and we would have no other opportunities for food along the way. I personally was still schlepping canned tuna, canned mussels, olives, cheese, bread, spinach, carrots and olive oil so didn’t need to go in!
Afterwards we reversed our direction and we stopped by The 14th-century Cathedral of Santiago that we missed yesterday. Generally pilgrims are allowed in the majority of churches upon our Camino routes, unfortunately not in these semi-post days of the Novel Virus and it’s variants. There was a huge tree in the church yard with a door in it!!
We had a half hour of highway walking and then we were into the cool forest of eucalyptus trees, ferns, country roads and wooded paths. There were a few big bouldered inclines, though our trek was mostly flat. Surprisingly, we didn’t encounter any cows or other pilgrims – only many barking dogs, a few friendly ones, a couple of skittish gatos (cats) and one who was extremely affectionate and wanted to continue on with us!!
Deep in the woods we happened upon the very spooky looking Chapel of San Alberte. And shortly there after a very substantial graveyard.
Our wonderfully inviting Pensión, Parga Natura, had an Uber boutique setting, decor and vibe – super clean and well designed – housed in a very old building in the 6th-Century town of Parga (or A Pobra in Gallician)! The backyard lounging area and living room had a view of the forest that we just walked through and on the other side, what remains of the ruins of the fortress of Puebla de Parga. Oral lore has it that a tunnel used to run from the fortress down to the town’s gothic bridge over the Rio Pargo. We strode down and over that bridge to the park an had a beverage in the adjacent bar.
Along the way we passed the impressive church of San Estevo which dates back to the 12th-century. Upon its roof is the “Agnus Dei” created by the sculptor Victor Corral (last night we were in Baamonde, where his birth home is now a museum of his works.)
The afternoon was spent in leisure as the pensión continued to fill up and actually felt a bit crowded. There was a family, a few couples, some other groups as well as individuals. A community dinner (Menú del Perigrino) of Esalada Paraguesa, Paella de Marisco, pan, vino y postre was served at 8:00 and it was a feast!